Alright, did you catch the big Kitchen Reveal with TONS of pictures from Let Me See You Sparkle Photography yesterday? (It looks like about 10k of you did, so THANK YOU!!!) That was the FUN post, but now it’s time to get down to technical business. I am hoping to share with you a post with the entire breakdown of HOW to go about painting your own kitchens. I would like to warn you that a lot of this was done early morning, late afternoon & around 1am when I had a few free minutes between everything else I was juggling – SO, these pictures are definitely subpar. I am not proud of the photos, but hopefully they are enough and it is thorough enough to get you through your own project. Like always, if you have ANY questions please feel free to reach out to me via email or PM on Instagram (it’s my fave social media).
I strongly recommend taking “Before” photos (of any project you do!). Nothing like having a completed project & not having pictures to compare how awesome your work it is. This the only time I was really concerned about having great lighting. You can see some of those before pictures in the post yesterday as well.
1.Your first step is going to be to remove all hardware (we had none to deal with) and then remove all the cabinets or “faces” as we referred to them. Label all of the faces with its particular number based on it’s placement in you kitchen and include a bag with any hardware or the pieces uses to attach it back to the framework.
2. Step 2 is to bust out the TSP that should be used to degreased the faces. This removes all of the previous years of build up sticky grime & gross. It really is disgusting when you start this process but it is necessary and vital. You will very easily be able to tell which were cleaned 100% effort versus 75% effort. Here is a picture of the stuff we used:
As always, follow the directions closely, work in small sections & remember that this is providing the perfect foundation for everything else you are about to do. All the details & effort you put into all these steps will show.
3. Step 3 Do a small layer of DecoArt Stain blocker to all of the fronts of the faces as well as the entire kitchens framework. This should be applied to help nothing show through over time & to provide a great foundation for the paint to adhere to. I recommend letting the faces dry overnight & then adding a layer onto the backs of the faces. This has to cure for SEVEN DAYS so now you can continue on with your life before all the painting begins. Believe me, DO NOT skip this step. Let that stuff sit for 7 days. This is your KITCHEN, or bathroom or anywhere else you are painting your cupboards – don’t try to skip steps.
4. It’s time to begin painting. I personally recommend doing this in small sections. First, so your entire house isn’t covered in painted pieces for the next weeks/, but also so that you can give each section all the attention it deserves. When you start trying to paint 20 pieces it’s overwhelming and you try to finish quickly. I wanted to make sure to give each individual face all the attention it deserved. I strongly recommend covering the place you are working on & it really helps if you place 4 cans under each of the pieces to keep them elevated. Also, always start with the fronts. There may be a little dripping to the back, but those aren’t seen as much, and you can always give a quick sanding to them.
Here are two quick time lapse videos of layer one and two of the Satin Enamels paint on the kitchen cupboards. Seriously SO easy guys!
(can you see the different between the second coat & the third coat?)
5. Paint in very slow, even coats. Begin on the side and work your way in. Follow the natural grain of the wood & in the middle (flat portion) get very even long strokes. Coat one will end up being a little light & see through. Let that baby dry for 3 hours minimum before you go back for more. I would only recommend doing this product inside. The paint has very little odor & your temperature needs to be well for it to dry – as well as no dust particles, bugs etc. When we were painting, I even turned off our fans to make sure nothing decided to stick onto my damp paint.
6. This step works for some & doesn’t for others but I did it. I used a very light 110grit sandpaper to lightly sand any uneven spots before I lightly wiped down and added another 2 coats. Let dry 3 hours between each coat. Sand, and add a final coat. Most of our faces needed 4-5 coats to be completely even and extremely white. For whatever reason, the dark brown showed through the first 2 coats. Let that dry for forever. Seriously. Don’t ruin all your hard work. As soon as they were coated enough – I’d keep them on the cans but move them to our guest room. Then start another set.
7. Steps 4-6 also apply to the framework. The only change is that this will all require taping. I recommend using high quality blue painters tape (go brand name peeps) so that there is absolutely no leaking. You don’t want leaks on your wall, or where you will storing all of your spices, cups, etc.8. While optional in most cases, I strongly recommend adding a top coat after the paint cures. This top coat depends on your preference. The Satin Enamels does not require a top coat – it is just something I strongly believe in. In a high traffic area, what is another coat of paint at this paint! Matte, glossy….all depends on your preference.
9. Add your hardware and reattach (remember all those numbers). Then, just step back and admire your fabulous new kitchen. (This home added hardware to the cabinets after they were painted & it was the perfect finishing touch!)
Pretty insane what some paint can do right?
I’ll forever appreciate DecoArt for seeing our vision and for helping us create this amazing kitchen.
Let me know if you have any questions!!!!